Francification of Covent Garden: Ladurée

Laduree's main entrance, taken by Ms Peas

As my beloved Miss Peas has already mentioned, last weekend we had the fortune to escape the shackles that keep us apart and delve into the depths of London's heart.  While there we both partook of culture and, of course, cuisine with great enthusiasm (albeit will a few ill effects the next day).

Now, Miss Peas has already written up our notes on Viet, an establishment on the edge of Soho.  I would like to take us a little further away, to the former tenements and rookeries of Covent Garden.  As a gentleman, I would not normally be seen amongst the hubbub of the great unwashed (well, unless there's a particularly fine restaurant, or bit of pretty), but for Ladurée I would make an exception.

For those unfamiliar, Ladurée is a French institution founded in 1862, particularly known for its macarons, cakes, and indeed savoury offerings should one stop for afternoon tea.  Understand these are not the giant coconut macaroons of our childhood, but dainty confections of ground almond and fine sugar available in all colours of the rainbow.

Now, I have to admit my favourite macarons in London are currently those of Pierre Hermé, another French confectioners who have a branch in Selfridges.  However, since we were in the area, I suggested to Miss Peas we should investigate Ladurée's latest venture, newly located over two floors on a corner of the main Covent Garden market.

Having opened in May 2011, its favourable location overlooks the comedic performers and endless crowds.  Unfortunately, this also means you must fight your way through these crowds to get to the entrance.  I would also add that I was slightly saddened to lose the Cove, a delightful Cornish themed pub that used to occupy the upper floors, and that often offered a haven (with Skinners ales) from the distressing accumulation of humanity that is Covent Garden on a weekend.

The building itself is now stripped of its faux-pirate accoutrements and painted a pleasant shade of blue-green, somewhere between lavender and sea-green.  This is paired with accents of gold to create the classically French Laduree trademark look.  I understand that the upper floors are occupied by a tea-room, while additional seating spreads out over the cobbles of the piazza for those looking to nom in house.

At some point I will return to try an afternoon tea there (although, given the prices, probably once my trust fund is reinstated), but since we were on a budget, both of time and monies, we ignored the selection of cakes and assorted noms in favour of a hastily chosen bag of macarons to devour and share later with Miss Plum (another visitor from the shires) and the Colonial Lass.

Sadly our first attempts were thwarted by the undeniable rudeness of one of the attendants, who ignored our attempts to get her attention.  Luckily the other gel was much more agreeable, and furnished us with a selection of macarons at £1.60 each - two salt caramel, one liquorice, and a selection of others.  Of those, myself and Miss Peas got to sample the salt caramel and liquorice.

My first impression was that these appeared slightly less well formed than those available in Ladurée's other branch in Harrods, with slightly thicker uneven filling than I remember.  That said the flavour was still delightful, although I also felt that the outside was also not quite as crisp as I'd have liked, taking away from the final experience.

As always, the salt caramel shined - I have a definite weakness to salt caramel and this delivered.  Saltiness accentuates the sweet and bitter notes to deliver a delightful experience, especially when combined with the creamy buttercream centre.  As for the liquorice, the expected flavour remains quite subtle but accentuates the underlying almond flavour to deliver a pleasing combination that lingers on the tongue.

Now, as I mentioned above that my favourite macarons are from Pierre Hermé, but I would say that if you are visiting Covent Garden this provides a delightful opportunity to pick up some macarons that will deliver on taste, if not necessarily freshness.  Otherwise, I would suggest it's worthwhile making an excursion to either of the flagship branches in Selfridges or Knightsbridge if you are after the best that macarons have to offer.