Noms and the City: A belated review of Gauthier

There are many problems with having a day job. For a start it constrains my artistic bent, limiting my writing to the hours of darkness (which some would argue is strangely appropriate). For a second, I have to pretend to the world to be a demure and serious business woman and hide the fact that I am, in fact, an eighteenth century harlot, which can come as a shock to the system on occasion. One major benefit, however, are the executive junkets, which at best give me the chance to meet up with young Julian, and at least let me travel the country scouting for pretty and noms.

Thus is was that some months ago (for I am a busy woman my dears, and time simply rushes away from me, like a cheeseboy on roller-skates) we ended up in the bustling heart of Soho in the salubrious establishment that is Gauthier. Such a beautiful environment – flowers and pictures and clean white lines in a lovely old townhouse. The welcome was warm and, well welcoming.  The restaurant itself was spread over three floors, making me feel like a hedonistic Victorian lady, immersed in a society of polite manners and cheap doxies.

Time has dulled my memory of the meal, dearest reader, but hopefully you can satisfy yourself with the details that I can recall. Alas that poor Julian can only remember that he ate fish and more fish, and Mr Green looks baffled when I ask him what he had.

The evening started (well, not quite – there had been a drink beforehand in the old Marquee club, now sadly occupied by one of Mr J.D. Wetherspoons Establishments) with an aperitif of pineau des charentes and some tiny mouthfuls of joy, served by waiters who combined beauty with skill – a rare combination in today’s world.

Oh darlings, there was crab with konbu jelly, foie gras wrapped in a sliver of pineapple and poppy-seed tuilles with a red pepper dip. Just the thing for getting conversation flowing. And, oh, that foie gras! So rich! I would never have thought of pineapple as a natural accompaniment, but it worked so well.

Next came an amuse bouche of salmon tartar with an apple jelly and lime foam, which for my taste was a little fussy. Too many sharp fruit flavours, though so pretty with its vibrant green and pink. I must also take a moment here to tell you about the bread: so many flavours and kinds, all toasty warm and freshly baked. Divine. Especially the garlic and cheese bread.

To start I had razor clams with squid and prawn dressed in a buttery sauce infused with wilted wild garlic leaf. Darlings, this was so garlicky and so good. I have a special fondness for garlic leaf, and in the butter it dressed the perfectly cooked clam and prawn beautifully, making the dish fresh and rich – the perfect starter: satisfying yet not filling.

The main course of rabbit cooked three ways was divine. One of the most amazing things I have ever eaten. There was confit of rabbit (crispy and delicious), ribs and various other bits. They were perfect – gamey and succulent. I am fairly sure there were other things with it – but the subtle flavour of the rabbit and the tender melting texture wipe the rest from my brain. Mr Green tried some and said it was better than his meal, and I would eat this again in a heartbeat it was so nomsome and good.

After this was a pre-dessert of salt caramel ice-cream, dark chocolate tuille and mango. It was lovely, but I tend not to like sweet things.

Or so I thought until the dessert proper arrived.

I had chosen a Golden Louis XV – a dark chocolate and praline confection on a dense hazelnut meringue type base. I… honestly do not have the words to describe this. If I close my eyes all this time later I can still taste it. In summary? Reader, I nommed him (and I would do so again, possibly until I died or developed gout, if indeed it is possible to get gout from chocolate.)

We finished with coffee (always a mistake for me, but darling Julian never seems to mind) which came with petite fours: a quince jelly thing, a rose flavoured Turkish delight thing, a chocolate truffle (which may well have been from the Gods and a tiny lemon tart. I have to say, I have NEVER had pastry like that before, and for something that good to be such a throwaway thing seems to sum up a lot about the quality of the restaurant for me. Oh the tastes! The dark rich flavour of the chocolate, the zing of the soft lemon filling on the tart… perfection on a plate.

In brief, this was a fabulous meal and I would thoroughly recommend it. We chose the pre-theatre menu, which offers the option of half a bottle of wine each for a nominal charge.  We took full advantage of this, and therefore obtained a bottle of red and a bottle of white between the four of us that matched the meals perfectly. With the wine, but not including the coffee or aperitif, it was £33 a head, which isn’t bad anywhere, much less a Michelin starred restaurant in London. With the rest added, it came to just under £50 a head, but since this is less than my usual Wednesday evening treat of whores and Bolly, I felt it was a prudent (and tasty choice).

Beloved Julian says I should point out they are also a wine merchant, and if the standard of wine was anything to go by, I would recommend them for this as well.